Paris Couture Fashion Week 2012

Paris Haute Couture Week 2012 officially opened it's doors on Monday to world class designers and stunning supermodels, displaying an array of exquisite clothes. This is an updated view of some of the most impressive collections. Click on the pictures for a larger view.



Versace

 Donatella sent a small group of Glamazons down the Versace Haute Couture runway for the the first time in 8 years. Glistening dresses seemed to be moulded onto the models, with sculpted corsets, extended hip flounces and rounded strapless necklines. Subtle metallics paled in comparison to the striking shades of tangerine, yellow and lime. High pony tails and smokey eyes completed the glam-warrior looks. I wished for more pizazz, less shine.

Chanel

Azure skies to starry nights - every shade of blue was represented at Chanel's 2012 Couture showing. Models in faux mohawks and fascinators walked down the aisle, set to look like the inside of an airplane. Tweed dress suits in powder blue, drop-waists and pocket seamed shifts with high cuffed necks, a scattering of blue sequins that shimmered like the sun on an ocean wave. Longer length gowns were displayed in midnight blue and the palest shade of blue chiffon. A couture take on air hostess outfits - if only!

Giambattista Valli

 The Giambattista Valli Couture show expressed sensual femininity: cream and black sheer lace dresses, petal-smothered skirts, sequins, satin and bows. I can picture someone like Olivia Palermo in the feathered frock, pictured second on the top row. Splashes of raspberry red, plum and fuchsia stole the scene with billowy evening gowns. Models wore elaborate floral headpieces, cohesively fitting in with the summery floral print gowns.

Christian Dior 

 Christian Dior's Haute Couture collection brings forth vintage-inspired shapes, from the swanky 50's to the more opulent Victorian era. A-line dresses were embroidered with floral designs, while pencil skirts were seen in houndstooth and grid prints. There was an interesting juxtaposition of 'heavy' sheerness. Layers and layers of see-through tulle were skillfully constructed into dramatic gowns with sizable skirts. Ruffles are certainly having a moment.

Armani Privé

Blue was to Chanel as green is to Armani this Couture season. Viridescent shades of green illuminated the striped catwalk, bringing with it chic reptilian-like jackets over mesh shirts and folded silk skirts. The under-the-sea extravaganza continued with a blinding neon gown rolled in sequins, graphic prints unfolded to reveal an inner black bodice, multi-layered mermaid gowns wrapped to resemble seaweed and a conspicuous shade of chartreuse which will ensure that this is an Armani range to be remembered.

Stephane Rolland

Stephane Rolland's Couture collection is one of my favourites from all featured in this post. Because he reimagined the basics, creating avant-garde designs and innovative silhouettes. Exaggerated origami-folds, geometric cut-outs, gold metal panelling, unfurling ruffles and architectural shapes. He chose to express these spectacular designs using a simple colour palette of black, white, red and lime green (which has been quite popular so far). Beautifully draped gowns swept the floor in silk jersey, gazar and organza. A masterful collection with an aura of confidence and allure.

Valentino

There was a feeling of regal antiquity surrounding Valentino's Spring Couture collection. If modern monarchy existed today as it did in the 18th century, I can imagine that this is what real-life princesses would wear. Prim white-to-ivory knee-length dresses, woven from the finest cotton and latticed lace. Feathery light floral frocks, demure as can be with high-frilled collars and sheer organza sleeves. A range that charms with it's maidenly grace.  

Zuhair Murad

Zuhair Murad's Couture collection is 'glitzy as charged' for Spring 2012. Extravagantly beaded gowns were dipped in champagne golds and varnished metallics. Black floral embroidery was starkly contrasted with nude-tone slips, while hourglass-enhancing silhouettes were shaped to perfection. Crystal-embellished gowns featured plunging necklines and tails of tulle. It's luxury meets sensuality. I can see many a country-singing-star lapping this one up.

Paris Fashion Week Favourites - Part Three

Paris Fashion Week

Spring/Summer 2012



Paris Fashion Week closed off another season of fabulous clothes, supermodels and remarkable designers. The biggest trends that have emerged for Spring 2012 are vibrant floral prints, citrus shades, cropped tops, pleating, lingerie-inspired outerwear, sheerness and belted waists. Although Spring is months away, it's never to early to be inspired.





Emanuel Ungaro

Emanuel Ungaro's newest designer Jeanne Labib-Lamour took a safe approach towards Spring 2012. Paint splash prints in doses of blue and red were pleated, draped, ruched and twisted. Silky jumpsuits and v-neck cocktail dresses were belted with thin metallic gold. Besides for sexy daywear, there was just a touch of sequins at the end, with a gold encrusted column evening gown. Models wore deep blue smokey eyes and side-swept fringes.

Alexander McQueen

Yet another display of creative brilliance for Alexander McQueen's Sarah Burton. The underwater inspiration was visible through clusters of tulle coral, couture lace swimming caps, oyster print chiffon, pearly shell pink and a treasure cove of gold dresses. The softness of fully ruffled gowns stood out against sculpted corsets and gothic black gowns. The painstakingly elaborate detailing extended to strappy platform heels. More like pieces of art that belong in a museum rather than in a boutique. 

Valentino

A dreamy and romantic Spring collection from the Italian duo behind Valentino. Pretty high-neck frocks were spun from delicate lace in shades of honeydew, lily white and black. There was also an odd shot of slinky leather dresses. Featherlight evening gowns skimmed the floor in transparent florals, dotted mesh and embroidered lace. Striking scarlet dresses stood out amidst the waves of nude chiffon.  

Chanel

It was Parisian-meets-oceanic chic at Chanel's Spring 2012 showing. Karl Lagerfeld was yet another designer to use an aquatic reference in his collection. The classic Chanel pieces were all there in the usual soft-hued palette; on this occasion scattered with pearls and foamy lace. A prominent feature were lines of black ribbon zigzagged across coats and dresses. A seabed effect was created by airy organza, shouls of gathered chiffon, opalescent textiles and shimmery sequins. Models wore flat ankle boots in lustrous silver, and slicked back hair.

Chloe

Clare Waight Keller expressed urbane femininity in her first efforts for Chloé. New to brand, Keller presented a commercially friendly collection in a dependable colour scheme of soft pinks, coral, cream and beige.  Horizontal stripes and colour-blocked panels were assigned to breezy pleated dresses. Classic white shirts were paired with relaxed-fit trousers. Wide leather belts were slung around drop-waist dresses. This collection may not have all the elaborate frills of others this season, but I find that there is beauty in functionality. 

Miu Miu

Capes. For Spring. If a designer-loving Red Riding Hood went to the Wild West, she would be dressed head-to-toe in Miu Miu. Miuccia Prada toyed with vampish girlyness in moody colours for Spring 2012. The idea of the 'velvet ribbon bound stole' was rendered in different lengths and quilt prints. The vintage charm of guipure lace was juxtaposed against the heaviness of patchwork and the sheen of satin dresses. Models sauntered in rose-embroidered cowboy boots, eyelids aglow with fiery red shadow.

Hope you have enjoyed my coverage of Fashion Week 2011-12. To see a recap of all the events, click here.

Paris Fashion Week Favourites - Part Two

Paris Fashion Week

Spring/Summer 2012





This is the second chapter of my Paris Fashion Week Favourites.





Martin Grant

Martin Grant's Spring collection produced a perfect balance of light and dark. Flashes of yellow, tangerine and electric blue were anchored by silky ebony gowns. The Australian designer steered clear from the popular floral prints of the season, sticking to monotoned duchess satin. Simple, unruffled shapes were a canvas for cut-outs and colour-blocking. A bright stripe of orange outlined the eyes. 

Sonia Rykiel

Shades of sunshine were beamed across an optimistic yellow runway at Sonia Rykiel's Spring showing. The colour palette developed from vanilla, honey and lemon to glowing midday oranges. Both sporty and feminine shapes were represented. A unifying strip of black fabric was drawn across pleated dresses, culottes and skirts. The collection concluded with a gorgeous colour block gown and silk tulip-print dresses.

Haider Akermann

It was the poetic works of 19th century dramatists, Byron and Baudelaire that inspired Haider Ackermann's Spring collection. The silhouettes had a strong masculine theme; with slouchy pants, loose-fit blazers and robe-like jackets.  Opulent fabrics like silk, jacquard and brocade were set in jewel tones and mismatched sari-like prints. It was great to see the models wear flat oxfords instead of heels. 

Costume National

Costume National's rose-tinted Spring range is as unpretentious as it is prepossessing. Composed and sophisticated outfits in charming shades of peppermint and pink went from work to cocktail wear. Italian designer Ennio Capasa focused on geometric tailoring, exaggerated cap sleeves and sheer panelling. A pretty, sensible and wearable collection. 

John Galliano

 Designer Bill Gaytten drew inspiration from two classic 'Marys' for John Galliano's Spring 2012 range. The Mary Poppins element can be seen in the boater hats, oversized tweed coats, corsages, flair skirts, Mary-Jane heels and carpet bags. 1920's actress Mary Pickford was the muse behind the saccharine organza dresses, swiveled in tulle. The collection leaped from bias-cut daywear to gauzy feminine evening gowns.

Andrew Gn

 Singaporean designer Andrew Gn merged Japanese construction with 18th century French grandeur for next Spring. Kimono-style dresses featuring origami pleating were woven from lavish baroque brocades. Rococo bejeweled waistbands adorned floaty chiffon dresses. Models were crowned by floral tiara headbands - the ideal accessory for a royally beautiful range.

Paris Fashion Week Favourites - Part One

Paris Fashion Week

Spring/Summer 2012

We've barely recovered from the excitement of Milan Fashion Week, and it's already onto the next one, Paris Fashion Week. Running from 27 September to 5 October, the City of Lights plays host to some of world's best designers, as they present their collections for Spring 2012. These are a few of my favourites so far.

Christian Dior 

Designer Bill Gaytten lends his charm to Christian Dior, showing off an enchanting, ladylike collection for Spring 2012. Daywear in retro-modern shapes were kept to neutral shades of beige, black, white and grey. The only splash of vibrant colour came from a line of saffron red silk dresses. Models were enveloped in sensational sheer organza evening gowns, tickled with lace. A gracious, yet humble new beginning (post Galliano) for the 65 year old fashion house. 

 Nina Ricci

Russian artist Zina de Plagny was the inspiration behind Nina Ricci's romantic Spring range. Prints from the 30's and 40's were reconditioned to fit contemporary designs with a Parisian-chic twist. Midnight blue was a thematic hue that went from daywear to night. Stretch satin sheaths, slip dresses and lingerie-inspired ensembles set a sensual tone. Caged hats and extra large clutch bags accessorized the feminine outfits.

Dries van Noten

Dries van Noten's Spring 2012 range exhibited a relaxed glamour, governed by a variety of influences. The digital floral and cityscape prints pay tribute to English photographer James Reeves. The silhouettes go back to the 50's, with a trace of Spanish design. He placed peplum flounces on pants and bells on sleeves, an emerging trend for next season. Heavy black lace and broderie anglaise enhanced the basic black, navy and white palette. Models wore slicked back hair and strappy tie-up heels.

Rue du Mail

Designer Martine Sitbon told a tale of exotic travels for Rue du Mail's Spring 2012 presentation. She played around with proportions, from fitted skirts to generously cut Moroccan-style caftans. Sitbon was also bountiful in her choice of fabrics: cottons, georgette, knits, satin, plissé detailing, Chinese-inspired prints, tulle embroidery and smock-frocks. Mexican inspired patterns were seamed onto sheer dresses. Smudged smoky eyes and multi-strap platform sandals accompanied this eclectic collection.

 Anne Valérie Hash

Anne Valérie Hash showcased modern designs in luscious tones of blue and a squeeze of orange zest. I love the originality in this collection; the twist-knot front trousers are something I haven't seen before. Two-tone tuxedo jackets were worn over silk slack-fit skinnies. Laid-back tailoring was an unmistakable feature throughout the tangy range.

 Roland Mouret

I was two-minded about Roland Mouret's Spring offering. I wasn't fond of the evil eye insignia on some pieces, but I was impressed by the contoured cut-out silhouettes. Mouret is masterful at moulding fabric into figure enhancing dresses. His flattering designs were nipped in the waist by black grosgrain ribbon belts. Tulip motifs were tacked onto chartreuse, navy & scarlet fit-and-flair dresses. A prim and polished range, that ideally depicts covert sexiness. 

Balmain

I haven't met a Balmain collection I didn't like. This is the first offering from the label's dashing new designer Oliver Rousteing, which can be best described as rock-chick rolled in gold. The glitz and glamour of Vegas collided with Mexican design and Rodeo chic, seen in glittering high-waisted mini's, lightwash denim, tasseled sleeves, glossy leather suits and skirts, structured shoulders, metallic buckled belts and lavishly bejeweled tops. Hypnotic.